Fall Risk, Month 11: This is Hard

I’ve never been a guy who shows up to the crag with any kind of intensity — that dark-side, chip-on-shoulder, must-send, laser-focused attitude that you run into just a bit too often. The way I figure it, I can try hard while smiling, or I can try hard with the white-hot intensity of a thousand suns. Either way, the result is about the same. And since climbing is a sport that rewards longevity and consistency, I’m more likely to climb more days, and for more years, if I don’t blow too many gaskets.

I climb because it makes me happy. So anything you might describe as success in my climbing has come because I genuinely love the sport. I love climbing outside, and I love climbing inside. I love projecting, and I love onsighting. I love bouldering, and I love climbing on ropes. I love long, majestic slab as much as I love short, chossy overhangs.

Mostly, I love trying really hard. Because, while there are hundreds of factors that are tough to wrangle — temperature, humidity, crowds, sun angle, rest, sleep, stress, wet holds, hydration, diet, phase of the moon, etc — how hard we try is something that is fully within our control. And if we try as hard as we can, then there is nothing to feel bad about if we don’t send, get a high point, or otherwise meet our goals.

Honestly though, I’ve been struggling with the last few paragraphs. I think they’d be more accurate in the past tense. Maybe I should replace “love” with “loved” when I discuss my relationship with climbing, because I can’t say I’ve loved the sport since my accident 11 months ago. And things have gotten much more complicated recently.



Of course, my recovery has never been easy. I have done hours of PT each day to get to where I am. But when symptoms of PTSD and Post Concussion Syndrome (nightmares, panic attacks, irritability, insomnia, depression, anxiety) started to kick in a few months ago, the recovery took on a different feeling. Gone are the days of being proud that I could straighten my arm just a bit more, or walk just a bit further. Now, improvements are emotional and difficult to detect. If I do see gains, I’m never sure if it’s just the antidepressants (which I’m not comfortable with as a long-term solution, and come with side-effects of their own) doing the bulk of the work. And while walking into a gym to do PT is a neutral endeavor, anticipating seeing my therapist or doing EMDR therapy creates anxiety of its own, as it’s much harder for me to feel emotional stress than physical stress.

In short, it’s a drag. And I often struggle to find the drive to do my nervous system training and relaxation exercises in preparation for my next therapy session.



Maybe with climbing, I did train — averaging nearly 200 climbing days a year over the last 5 years is not something that happens without pain and the need for serious maintenance — but I just loved the process so much that it didn’t feel difficult. Or maybe I was attracted to the sport in the first place because of the difficulty. I’m not sure if I could ever get much satisfaction from doing something that is easy.

With mental therapy, maybe I’ll never capture the same love that drove my climbing. But I can recognize that this, too, is hard. So all I can do is try as hard as I can. And if I get to the other side of the difficulties, I think it will be as satisfying as any climb I’ve ever completed.

And maybe if I can beat, or manage all of these new struggles, I can begin to bring my feelings about climbing back to the present. That would be nice.

Because I really loved climbing.

Fall Risk, Month 8: Trust

A few weeks ago, I was climbing in a gym. After some warm-up routes, I decided to hop on a newly set 5.12a. This was once a gym grade that didn’t come with much doubt — sure I could mess something up, but if I figured out the sequences, I wouldn’t fall.

As I started up the route, it felt harder than I’d anticipated. I fought through a few moves, and about halfway up, I noticed someone about ten feet below me and and to my right. Just then, I followed a sequence of crimps that traversed to the right, above the other climber. A fall would probably not cause a collision, but it could be close. I thought, “just get through the sequence, it doesn’t look too hard. This is just the nature of gym climbing.” I’d been in this situation a hundred times, and it’s always ended just fine.

But this time, I panicked.

Imagining falling and being in another accident immediately weakened my grip. I grabbed a quickdraw, clipped, and called for a take. I sat on my rope, cheering on the other climber as she passed, trying not to let on that my insides were coursing with adrenaline. I tried to continue climbing, but couldn’t. When I lowered, the gym closed in around me. All of the voices, music, and sounds of climbing, blended together. I couldn’t focus on my partner when they were yelling commands. I had to stop the session. I went into the locker room, sat down in the shower, tried not to cry, and tried not to vomit.

It was almost eight months ago that my Shunt completely detached from my rope and I fell 35 feet to the ground. My knee has cooperated enough lately to allow me to walk to a few roadside crags, and it’s been great to get outside and climb again. There have even been a few moments over the last month that I’ve felt what I can only describe, with tremendous gratitude, as almost normal.

But with my improving physical health has come mental setbacks. My anxiety levels have actually increased steadily over the last two months. I lose sleep thinking about potential climbing accidents. When I do sleep, I’ve been dreaming a lot about falling and ropes disconnecting. On the rock, I spend far too much time considering, and vividly visualizing, all of the ways my gear could fail. I imagine a rope slicing, an anchor failing, my harness or a Grigri ripping apart. I’ll be resting on top rope when suddenly my stomach drops, and in my mind, I’m in free fall. I hit the ground, and relive the accident in a matter of seconds.

This is not the helpful kind of fear that keeps you from danger. It’s the obsessive, overwhelming, panic-inducing fear that paralyses. It’s simply not possible to perform the difficult and precise task of climbing anywhere near your limit with visions of dying dancing in your head.

Right now, my main issue seems to be with trust.

First, I can’t trust my body to do what it used to do. My right knee still unexpectedly buckles below me, my right elbow locks up without warning, and my strength levels dropped quite a bit in my 3+ month wheelchair stay. Those holds look like things I can grab, but these days, there’s a lot more internal doubt about what my fingers and body are capable of.

Next, to make a long story short, a piece of gear that I trusted, failed to do what I expected it to do. The manufacturer has done as little as possible to fully inform the climbing community of this low-force failure mode, despite the fact that it nearly killed two people in the span of two months. Previously, I felt that a climbing gear manufacturer would be more forthcoming with this type of information. Now, I look at the gear around me and imagine the actuary who shrugged off a few likely deaths as acceptable collateral for getting my money.

Finally, I don’t trust climbing to do what it used to do for me. I spent over a decade falling in love with and trying to master this sport. Nine months ago, and for years before that, I loved every moment I was on the rock. It was my escape from reality, my mental and physical challenge, my addiction, my religion.

What do you do when the thing that you rely on for your general well-being, suddenly starts having the opposite effect?

I’ve built my life around climbing — even quitting my job to become a climbing coach just a week before my accident — so I want to figure this out. And clearly I have a lot of questions and very few answers here…

But I know that we all have to trust in order to live normal lives. Right now, I trust that this building that I’m typing in was constructed properly. I trust that the people who drive near me won’t make a fatal mistake. I trust that the food that I eat isn’t contaminated. I trust that Jackie won’t break my heart. I trust my physical therapists, who say that all of the work I put into rehab will pay off.

Consciously or unconsciously, I place an overwhelming amount of my well-being into the hands of others on a daily basis. But in the moments of my life when I could have used an extra shoulder to lean on, I’ve been stubborn. I tend to struggle quietly. To play down pain with a smile. I internalize. I write songs. I write essays. I go it alone.

Why? Maybe it’s because my issues seem so small compared to others and, at the same time, too big a burden to place on someone else. Maybe it’s a cultural taboo that guides me away from asking for help. Maybe I feel that expressing an issue out loud makes it real. Or maybe I lack the trust that another human, with their own flaws and issues, could help me.

If I can take a positive from this accident, it’s that it forced me to be vulnerable. For the first time in my life, I was in a situation that I couldn’t handle on my own. In fact, I would have died out there alone, on the ground unable to move. I had no choice but to trust.

And strangers rose to the occasion. They held me in their lap. They got me safely and quickly to a helicopter. They performed surgery. They stayed by my bedside. They kept me alive and got me back on my feet.

Eight months later, it seems that I still need help. I can walk again, but my emotions are in disrepair. My anxiety levels are high. I don’t trust my body, my gear, or the sport that keeps me going. But I know that I can reach out for help — I’ve contacted my doctor about therapy options. Because right now, I can only trust that there’s a stranger out there who can help me get back on my feet.

Fall Risk, Month 6: Clarity

I don’t remember falling through the air, but I remember hitting the ground.

It felt like getting hit by lightning. My vision went blurry. The world went quiet.

Within a few seconds, I could feel only general pain, I could see only blood, and could hear only the ringing in my ears.

For the next minutes, my brain was an old fashioned television, the tuner dial racing between reality and delusion, static ever present. One second, I believed that I was back on the wall, climbing. The next, I was on a stranger’s lap. Then I was in bed, having a bad dream. Or maybe I’d just fallen and died. As the dial frantically turned, it occasionally gave me short-lived glimpses into what seemed to be someone else’s traumatic near-death experience.

Eventually, my brain tuned to a station adjacent to reality. But throughout a drug-filled hospital stay, three months in a wheelchair accessible hotel, and months of drug-reduction depression, a level of static and confusion persisted.

Looking especially tuned out during my first attempt to sit up

Six months after my fall, and two weeks after keeping my prescription drug dose steady, I found a bit of relief from the static. One night, I simply looked at Jackie, who was sitting next to me in the van, and felt like I was actually seeing her for the first time in months. I can only compare the moment to a story a friend recently told me about the first day she got glasses when she was a child. She walked outside and said, “the trees have leaves!” In my moment of clarity, looking at Jackie, this is exactly how I felt. I knew that she’d been there — I’d seen her general shape all along. But suddenly I could see all of the details. I could see her kindness and how much time she spent caring for me. I could see her humor and how much she makes me laugh. I could see her radiance and how much energy she brings to a room.

The sudden realization that I hadn’t been fully present for her overwhelmed me. Through tears, all I could say was, “I haven’t seen you for so long.”

There she is!

Clarity has come in other parts of my life too. My x-rays show that my bones have healed well, albeit with a bit of displacement. After doing physical therapy several times a day, seven days a week for almost 6 months, I can walk well enough to get to a single roadside crag in the area (meet me at Anarchy Wall, friends!). I can also climb pretty well, logging my first 5.12s since my accident. It seems that, at least for now, climbing can remain a part of my life.

Maybe most importantly, my nerve pain medication dosage has dropped to a third of the original dosage, and it’s been steady for over two weeks. This has boosted my mood quite a bit and lifted much of the fog from my thoughts.


The future is never certain for any of us. We never know whether unexpected great fortune or terrible hardship is just around the corner. Each of us also has our own bonus uncertainties, unique to this particular time in our lives.

At the moment, I’m not certain how my joints and brain will respond in the coming months and years. Whether I’ll need surgery or develop arthritis. But the likely lives I could be living a year from now seem to have narrowed — the near future is a bit more in focus. A year from now, I’m likely to be living in a van with Jackie, with climbing as my primary hobby. I’m likely to be doing a bit of math teaching, a bit of climbing coaching, and playing a bit of music.

And that’s all the clarity that I need to say that this is a life that I’m looking forward to living.

Injury Updates:

I’ve been in a gym doing PT and/or climbing nearly every day this month. I rotate doing around 30-40 different exercises, mostly focusing on my feet, knees, elbows, shoulders, pelvis, and core. My body continues to improve! I walked 2 flat sidewalk miles three days ago and my left calf still hurts from it :) But I haven’t used a cane in a while, and I can use trekking poles to do very short hikes.

I’ve been able to start pushing my climbing on a rope, but still haven’t built up to taking impact, so no bouldering or system board training. I’ll begin working with a climbing specific physical therapist next week.

Open questions: Will my right elbow ever stop hurting with every day activities? Will my right knee strengthen enough to be able to hike without pain? Will either joint injury require surgery? Will I be able to continue to climb and regain my pre-accident strength? Will I develop arthritis or other joint problems?

Fall Risk, Month 5: The Masked Man

I’ve tended to use essay writing as a positive outlet, with songwriting being a channel for my more negative emotions. For whatever reason, I feel compelled to have my essays conclude with a shiny, hopeful, and optimistic bow. But I’ve seen the world as less rosy over the last few weeks. And instead of writing more honestly, I just didn’t write. So from here on, I’m going to try to write monthly — an interval on which I can sustainably conjure, collect, and organize positivity.

Of course, I am aware of how lucky I am to be writing at all. To be able to walk. To be climbing again, albeit exclusively at the gym. I need to remind myself of my good fortune several times a day. But I’m here to report that taking a big ground fall isn’t as fun as it looks on social media. And, if only for a few moments, I hope to be able to convey a fuller range of emotions and difficulties stemming from my fall.

Each day is framed by several hundred reps of physical therapy, which, based on the simplicity of the exercises, I’m embarrassed to say leaves me quite exhausted. And in the process of doing PT, I seem to have strained a tendon in my right knee, making walking more difficult. The knee will unexpectedly buckle in pain when I’m simply standing still. The number of steps I can take each day is extremely limited. One day, I got confident and walked about 1/16 of a mile uphill on a sidewalk, then back down… I didn’t recover for over a week.

Meanwhile, my right elbow and bicep still have shooting pains with simple daily motions. The arm worries me more than anything, because it needs to withstand so much stress while rock climbing. So after 5 months of rest, healing, recovery, and setbacks, it’s still hard to predict what my future with the sport looks like.

And while there are obvious physical impacts from sitting in bed for 3 months, I believe the bodily stress of my accident is also changing my appearance. When I look in the mirror, I suddenly see a lot more grey hair — not just a bit at the temples, but all over my head.

So my body doesn’t feel or look quite like me. But the mental impacts have been more frustrating.

As I wrote in my week 16 post, I’ve been trying to reduce my gabapentin dosage. Last week, I also went cold-turkey with the sleeping drugs that I’ve been on since my hospital stay. The combined effect has left me more irritable and more depressed than at any point since my accident. I’ve been trying to boost my mood with caffeine, but the effect wears off at night. I might request an SSRI from my doctor, but a new prescription med to help get off of prescription meds seems a bit like Springfield’s plan to eradicate Bolivian tree lizards.

This week, as I was driving down the street, I heard my inner dialogue return for about 20 minutes. I had loud thoughts! They bounced around in my head! Even more fascinating, I made connections to those thoughts and things happening in the outside world! As the moment passed, I realized that this was how living in my head used to feel all of the time.

At least I think that’s what used to happen up there. I remember feeling sharper. I always had a song in my head. I recall feeling more energized. I think I was happier.

But it’s hard to say for sure. I wouldn’t have realized it if it wasn’t for that 20 minutes of lucidity, when the veil was briefly lifted. With my prescription-drug mask ever-so-slightly pulled back, I caught a glimpse of how life used to look.

In my week 10 essay, I discuss how easy it is to normalize to each life accomplishment — to forget what it was like when our skills weren’t honed or our existence wasn’t so cushy. It turns out that it’s also easy to normalize to how quickly our synapses fire. Or how much pain we have in our bodies. How we engage with the outside world. How we appear in the mirror. How often we smile.

It’s easy to forget who we are.

Sadly, this is pretty common. We forget what it can feel like to sleep well. Or who we are without seven things to do at once. We wear our stresses like a mask. With time, this mask binds with our skin. We fail to perceive any shift, and ultimately, forget that there was ever a mask at all.

Two years post covid, we are all experiencing this on some level. We’ve slowed or altered our personal interactions. Most of us have changed the way we work. We connect differently with our families. As the pandemic (hopefully) wanes, some features of the last two years will become permanent fixtures in our lives.

We might blindly fall into our new skin, but I hope that we can be cognizant enough to decide which layers to shed and which to keep. And as we pull back our literal and figurative masks, I hope that we can first remember, and subsequently recover, what we loved about who we once were.

Fall Risk, Week 19: Incredible Effort

A while ago, a struggling student emailed me to ask about his prospect of passing. He included the phrase,

“Lately, I have been putting forth what seems to me to be an incredible effort to improve my grade.”

While his grade was quite bad, the student had previously shown flashes of focus. I was intrigued. Maybe the brief chat I’d had with him about his work ethic had gotten through? Maybe he’d turned over a new leaf? With hope for this young man in my heart, I logged into our online homework system to see… that he had completed 2 of the last 100 homework problems. A total of 11 minutes of effort.

Not so incredible.

With my hopes of a brighter semester for this student dashed, I wondered why he had written that line in his email. Did he think that I would be fooled, not even look at the assignments, and go ahead and give him that “A” that only comes with such an obviously incredible effort? Maybe he wanted to advertise himself as hard-working, planting a seed in my mind for a future recommendation.

Perhaps the most likely truth is that the student really believed that he was putting forth great effort. Maybe he thinks a lot about math homework, even stresses about it. That can be tiring, so it feels like work, even when no actual progress was made.

What’s sad is that if the student put as much effort into doing math as he put into pained rumination, he probably would have passed the class.

But I can empathize. This is a common human struggle. We think about someone’s birthday gift so much that it feels like we’ve put a lot of effort into it, even if the end result was going back and getting the first gift we saw. We often worry about how to appropriately respond to a text, but the end result is just sending an emoji. Or maybe we spend a whole weekend considering whether we might put some hours into a work project, but we never do.

We’d like the amount of stress we put in, to somehow be equal to the quality of our output. But it typically doesn’t work this way. Our brains like to crank away, even when there’s no cream in the churn.

This happens quite a bit with climbing too. I often see folks sitting at the base of a crag for 45 minutes after they’ve arrived, doing a lot of hemming and hawing about what route they want to try and who’s going to climb first. “Maybe I’ll just take it easy today and climb well below my limit,” we often say. This is almost always a product of stress. That first route, or maybe that first challenging route — the one with the unknown hold quality and uncertain clipping positions — can be a tough thing to embark on… especially with people watching your performance.

Some climbers circumnavigate this stress by picking a project (along with the same two warm-ups) to work every climbing day for months or years. Another possible stress avoidance strategy is only climbing at a level that we can comfortably onsight. These are fine options if it’s what you truly want out of the sport, but I think most of us strive to be stronger, more competent, and more comfortable in a variety of situations.

In a similar attempt to avoid immediate stress, some math students don’t show up to class at all, or try very little when they do. And some people don’t attempt gift giving, thoughtful texting, work projects, or anything that might have a rewarding payoff.

Maybe it’s not the lack of optimal action that is so troubling with each of these scenarios. It’s that stress took joy away from our lives regardless.

So how can we reduce this unnecessary perceived effort while still feeling a sense of satisfaction with our lives? Or, in other words, how do we improve our productivity to stress ratio?

I may have fallen (I only ask that you allow me to make falling puns for… the rest of my life) into one answer to this question after my accident. A lot of people ask me how I dealt with the emotional toll of not being able to leave my room for 3 months, or the lack of consistency in my subsequent recovery. And while I’ve done a handful of things to maintain sanity, the truest answer seems to be, “complete resignation.”

I haven’t had much of a choice in the matter.

Climbing, walking, standing, or even sitting up quickly were just not going to happen for me. And if I still need a cane, almost 5 months later, then there’s not much I can do about that. Accepting my position, however undesirable, allowed me to move forward.

So maybe if we can make decisions, and accept them as if we have no further choice in the matter, then we’ve cracked it.

  • Don’t know which route to climb? Pick the one that is first alphabetically. Blame the Gods and bail if it doesn’t work out.

  • Can’t decide which of the 60 peanut butter options to go with? Choose randomly and call your next PB&J the “sandwich of fate”.

  • Don’t know what gift to choose? Go with your gut — it usually works out for gifts. Or give the gift of the peanut butter that you hated.

Accept that you’re a math student and give it your best. Schedule times to work, and work. Schedule times to not work, and don’t work. Choose the nearest poop emoji for the text (or essay images) you’re not sure about, or just write, “I don’t know how to respond”. Decision made. In most situations, any decision will do just fine. And if you’re unhappy with one, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to redeem yourself.

Just don’t let stress take the joy out of… everything. Living shouldn’t take an incredible effort.

Fall Risk, Week 18: Medical Problems (Part 2)

I’m trying to do several things by writing this blog each week. First, I’m keeping myself busy and focused while I heal. It’s been really helpful as a gauge for the passing of time, as the drugs (and the unprecedented amount of indoor sloth I’ve engaged in) blur the days and weeks.

I also feel like it will be nice to have this as a record of some of my experiences. Whenever I feel frustrated, it’s good to go back to a previous essay to remind myself of just how far I’ve come.

Finally, I hope that I’m making myself useful. Maybe there will be some words and thoughts here that could help someone in a similar situation. And based on the conversations I’ve had, there is some curiosity in the world about the experience of having an accident and trying to recover. While I like to keep things positive, I’m trying to be as transparent and honest as possible.

With my Medical Problems essays, I’m trying to capture my experiences within the health care system. And while I could talk for hours about the topic, I’ll try to cover a few main points with two stories.

Story 2: Getting On My Nerves

As I pointed out in my week 1 essay, pain is constantly being tracked when you’re in a trauma center. In my first 10 days in the hospital, every day, multiple times per day, I complained of a dull ache in the back of my right leg. The pain went from the back of my knee all the way up to the upper part of my right glute. I consistently put the pain in the 3 to 5 range, which was a high number for me, considering that I reported a 6 when I was being carted down a hill to a helicopter.

I assumed the pain was a tight or pulled muscle, so I got a heating pad to try to loosen things up. Two days later, had a serious looking and itchy rash on the back of my right leg all the way up my butt, I can only assume from sitting in my own sweat all day. After a few days of sponge baths and quitting the heating pad, the rash subsided. But the pain in my leg never went away.

About 10 days into my luxury hospital vacation, a doctor came in to discuss what medications I could eliminate from my daily potpourri. He asked if I had any nerve pain. “I’m not sure, but I have had this persistent dull pain in the back of my leg,” I said. My doctor immediately decided to take me off of the gabapentin, a nerve pain drug I’d been taking since the accident.

The next morning, I woke up at 3am with a pulsing hot sharp pain in the back of my right leg. I had never had nerve pain before, but I knew this was it. Imagine the skin and muscle of your leg held open like a high school fetal pig dissection. Now, imagine heating a knife and lightly touching it deep inside your leg. Move it up and down, vary the pressure, and sometimes give it a little flick. That’s my best description of what I felt.

I called the night nurse in to explain that the doctor had taken my nerve drug, gabapentin, off of my schedule, and I was definitely having nerve pain now. Despite my distaste for dependence on drugs for relieving pain (evidenced by the fact that I’d declined to take oxy after just a few days in the hospital), I knew that the long-term negative impacts of gabapentin were minor compared with opioids. Also, this pain was on different level. While I’m usually good at pushing pain out of my mind, I found it nearly impossible to do with nerve pain.

So I asked for more gabapentin.

The nurse explained that it’s not a drug that they can dispense without my doctor’s approval, so I should wait until the doctor comes by in the morning to get it back on my schedule. I waited until the morning shift change, and told my day nurse the same story around 7am. She had the same answer for me. “Your doctor will be in soon. In the meantime, I can give you oxy every 4 hours as needed.” I still declined the oxy, determined to not touch the stuff unless it was totally necessary.

With each passing hour, the gabapentin, which I now knew had been masking my nerve pain (making it feel like a dull muscle ache since the day of the accident) was leaving my system. My pain was increasing, getting sharper by the hour, and I was starting to feel desperate. My weekend doctor rolled in at about 10 that morning, and I told her the story. She agreed to put me back on the drug. “But gabapentin is a drug,” she told me, looking toward the sky and gesturing her outstretched fingers in a circular motion, “that should be taken 3 times per day. So we want to put you on a 9am, 3pm, 9pm schedule.” Since 9am had passed, my next dose would be 3pm.

By now, I was a wily hospital veteran, who knew that you can request drugs an hour before schedule. So, while my pain level was around a 7 and rising, I knew I could make it to 2pm.

Jackie did her best to keep me distracted with conversation and crosswords, but the hours passed slowly. The pain became more pulsing, and the electric jolts were more frequent. I called in the nurse at 2:01pm, happy to have some relief on the way. But the nurse looked at my drug schedule and explained that gabapentin still wasn’t there. The doctor hadn’t put it in the system.

A long half hour later, the nurse came back and explained, “The doctor didn’t forget. She just hasn’t put it in yet.” Increasingly frustrated, I fought the urge to explain the definition of the word “forget”, and how it seems to apply pretty well here. It had been four pain-filled hours since the doctor visited. If a five minute task wasn’t completed, then you forgot.

3pm passed. My pain reached its highest levels since the second I crashed into the ground 10 days prior. 4pm passed. Still no nerve pain medication.

At 4:30, I couldn’t handle it anymore. I called the nurse, and said, “give me gabapentin, or give me oxy.” She came into my room with gabapentin.

As I desperately gobbled the drug, knowing it would be a while before it provided any relief, the nurse explained to me that next time I should let them know in advance if I’m feeling pain. I bit my tongue, resisting the urge to scream, “I asked for this 13 hours ago!”

Early the next morning, without much gabapentin built up in my system, the pain woke me up again. Frustrated, I asked for the only pain relief option available to me: oxy.

There are a hundred things wrong with this story.

While I understand doctors’ decisions to remove drugs aren’t always perfect, my dosage of gabapentin shouldn’t have been dropped so rapidly. (As I learned just a few weeks ago, withdrawal is possible.) And after this story, my dosage needed to be increased quite a bit to provide the previous level of pain relief.

And why wasn’t there more communication between nurses and doctors about my pain? Couldn’t they just send a text and get approval to put me back on meds I’d been receiving for the previous 10 days? They had all of my pain numbers in the system, could see the consistency in my leg pain, and could see that my pain number was higher than normal. What is this number being collected for if not for this very situation?

Perhaps a more maddening issue is that throughout the entire 13 hour ordeal, I was never given an option other than oxy and Tylenol for pain relief. But I’m pretty sure a bit of massage could have helped. Maybe some stretching? Meditation? A bath? Some smooth jazz music to provide emotional therapy? There must have been someone in the hospital who knew something about sciatic nerve pain who could have given me some suggestions.

During those hours, I spent a lot of time Googling options and trying things out. But why, while sitting in a hospital bed that cost $12,000 a day, did I have to rely on Google for any amount of medical information?

Finally, I think this story gives a bit of insight into the “opioid crisis”. Without any other pain relief options available, what is a patient expected to do when they are hurting? As well-intended and hard-working as nurses are, their superiors on some level, don’t trust them enough to dispense reasonable care. Even those who were quick to discuss the downsides of opioids when prompted, had been quietly dispensing oxy to me for days. The system doesn’t give them a lot of options.

Rhyming Moral: If your aim is care and to get well, it’s better to get a nice hotel.

Non-rhyming Moral: Capitalistic or not, bureaucracy is problematic.

Injury Updates:

It turns out that increasing my number of steps per day while simultaneously doing physical therapy on both feet, my pelvis, my knees, and my elbows, all while trying to make strength gains in climbing… is hard. I hit physical and emotional walls sometimes. But every week has been better than the week before.

I’m walking and climbing better, but not pain-free. I probably look pretty normal on many days, but true normalcy is still a ways off. All I can do is try my best and hope that my new normal isn’t far off from my old normal.

Fall Risk, Week 17: Medical Problems (Part 1)

A lot of people ask questions about my accident. And I’m happy to talk at length about any part of the process, from my device detaching from the rope, to the rescue, to being in the hospital, to my physical therapy, to returning (eventually) to the rock, to keeping my spirits high throughout. If you ever have a question, please ask!

A common question I get is, “what has surprised you the most”. I don’t like to get negative, but the answer has to be my experiences within the medical system. Having never had an accident or sickness serious enough to require a hospital stay, you could call me naive. And over the last 17 weeks, I went from feeling that, despite the costs, we probably have one of the best medical systems in the world, to feeling that the issues with our system are so deep that most first-world countries must be doing a better job.

Don’t get me wrong. Every single nurse I’ve had has been extremely kind (except the guy who pushed quite hard, seemingly for sport, directly on my broken heel). Every physical and occupational therapist I’ve worked with has been a wealth of knowledge and enthusiasm. Allllmost every doctor has been helpful too. So I’m confident that patient-facing individuals are doing more than their best to help.

But let me tell you two stories, one this week, one next week, that say something about my medical problems…

Story 1: Brace Yourself

When you break your back, you need a back brace. I learned this when a woman dressed in scrubs entered my room just a day or so after my accident. I asked whether this was really necessary, since I wouldn’t be able to stand for what turned out to be over twelve weeks. She cheerfully explained that the brace aids in healing by stretching and straightening your spine, and was fully covered by insurance. Though I was very drugged up, and in a lot of pain, I realized that her demeanor and speech pattern didn’t match that of any of the other medical professionals I’d dealt with. She was a salesperson, dressed like someone with a degree in health care.

But what other options did I have in my current state? I thought about calling in a real nurse in to ask if I could order a brace online and ship it to the hospital, whether there would be another salesperson stopping by to offer me another option, and how this was even legal in the first place (especially considering that covid restrictions limited guests to one per day). But every word I spoke was painful, and every interaction I had was exhausting. So I signed on the dotted line, and hoped she would just leave.

She didn’t.

Radiating glee from having made a sale, she told me that to make sure the brace fit, I’d need to get it underneath me. This involved rolling on my side, an extremely difficult and painful process at the time. My nurse, a very meticulous, thoughtful, and anxious-to-please man, came in to help. When they rolled me and held me on my side, the saleswoman in scrubs pushed directly on my broken ribs, causing a lot of pain and a very rare vocal outburst from me. When they rolled me back down, I put my one unbroken arm up and asked them to stop. In my head, I knew that before they proceeded, I needed to communicate the extent of my injuries, because the salesperson was obviously unaware. What came out was, “my ribs are broken.” The salesperson immediately got extremely defensive, saying “I didn’t put any pressure on any part of you,” and very quickly grabbed her things and stormed out of the room without confirming the fit of the brace.

I never saw her again.

Eventually, when I was able enough to sit up in bed, the nurses and therapists showed me how to put on the brace. I was told that any time I sat up in bed, used my wheelchair, used the bathroom, or took a shower, I needed to put it on. I obeyed these rules for seven weeks.

Then a bill came for $1100. Like most bills, it was not clear what it was for. So I entered the strange combination of letters and numbers into google, and found several pictures of my back brace. The first thing I noticed was that you could find these back braces on ebay for $50, and new braces from retailers for about $400. That’s a pretty big, but oddly expected and accepted, mark-up.

But here is the most troubling part of this story. All of the pictures and manuals that I found online showed me that I wore this overpriced back brace quite incorrectly for seven weeks. The brace needed to be worn much lower on my back, with the straps under my armpits, not over my shoulders like I’d been shown.

So I’d been sold a back brace in my hospital room, while I was in an extremely vulnerable state, by someone camouflaged as a medical professional. Someone who, not knowing the extent of my injuries, caused me a great deal of pain, and, when I tried to communicate this, didn’t listen, but left in a huff. The back brace was extremely overpriced, a practice that causes all of our health insurance costs to rise. And the thing never did any good anyway; in fact, it may have caused harm in the healing of my back.

The primary intent of the medical system was certainly, at one point, patient care. Millions of medical professionals train for years so that they can help people. But a private company’s desire for profit literally invaded my hospital room and did nothing but harm. This profit came at a large cost.

Rhyming Moral: If their scrubs are too clean, they just want your green.

Non-rhyming Moral: Capitalism doesn’t discriminate… or empathize.

I have one more story for you next week. It’s about drugs.

Fall Risk, Week 16: Withdrawal

Hi. My name is Craig, and I am addicted to rock climbing. I’m not sure how humorous I intend this statement to be. I might have a problem.

In 2018, I climbed 210 days outside and put in another 25 days at the gym. I climbed as many as 14 days in a row. I climbed until I thought I might suffer a serious shoulder injury. So I ramped up my PT to enable me to keep going. Non-climbing friendships were put on hold. I felt irritable on rest days. All of the signs were there.

I figured if I stopped climbing cold-turkey, I’d probably have symptoms of withdrawal.

Well, I did stop climbing cold-turkey. For 3 months. While all that time, I dreamed of climbing the way that I imagine a junkie would dream of their next high, I didn’t get much of a chance to experience the withdrawal. Because I was on all kinds of happy-making drugs, that numbed my pain and took me to an alien world.

One of those drugs is called gabapentin. It is a miracle drug for me when it comes to alleviating the sciatic nerve pain that cropped up immediately after my accident. It took the pain in the back of my right leg from an 8 to a 2 with just a few doses. Eventually, the doctors and I found that getting rid of my nerve pain required a daily dose of 1800 mg – not the maximum dose for the drug, but not too far off.

The only problem is that gabapentin is pretty mind-numbing. My short-term memory has taken a big hit. And each day passes in a haze that suggests that my behaviors and interactions are controlled more by robotic action-reaction than actual sentient decision-making. For months now, I haven’t had the inner dialogue that motivates me, provides the source of my best ideas, and generally makes me feel like an intelligent, thinking being.

I’ll let you decide which three of these I have. Hint: It ain’t the sweet breath.

After being cleared to walk, my surgeon agreed that I could try to reduce my gabapentin dosage. On the first day of 2022, I happily went down to 1500 mg, hoping for some mental clarity. Instead, this “new year new me” was easily frustrated and quite agitated — a rarity for me. But I didn’t immediately connect the irritation with the titration (despite the dope rhyme). And I didn’t feel any extra nerve pain in my right leg, so after a few days, I dropped my dosage again — this time to 1200 mg.

The next morning, I woke up assuming that I had covid. I was sweating despite the freezing temperatures in the van. I heated things up in the van and had chills the rest of the morning. My anxiety was high. I felt nauseous. Even the sound of my favorite person’s voice made me feel agitated. I then realized that I didn’t have any of the cold symptoms associated with the omicron variant of the virus. I didn’t have covid.

I was in gabapentin withdrawal.

As a person who hesitates to take even one ibuprofen tablet when I have a headache, and whose pastimes don’t seem to overlap much with those described in Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas, I had assumed that drug withdrawal was something I’d only ever see on TV. But hey, here’s to new experiences. And what is a life truly lived but a series of new experiences. And since I’m still fairly disabled, I may as well happily accept whatever experiences this whole accident provides. I’d say around 7 of those simultaneous experiences are skillfully illustrated below.

I love a good infographic.

It turns out that withdrawal isn’t the only drug-related problem I may face. My sister, who works in the industry, said that I could experience depression and anxiety coming off of gabapentin. My psychiatrist friend told me that my dosage was dropping way too quickly, which could reignite my nerve pain and require an even higher dosage to relieve it.

So, I’ve decided to increase my dosage back to 1500 mg and stay there for a while. I’m struggling enough to keep up with the healing of multiple traumas. I don’t need to add any more changes to that list right now.



So as I slowly wean myself off of one drug, I hope to re-enter a different kind of addiction. One that doesn’t carry shame, but pride. One that doesn’t narrow my world view, but broadens it. One that won’t make me weaker, but stronger. An addiction that I would be proud to be back in the throes of, if I’m lucky enough to get a second chance.

So yeah… my name is Craig. And I’m addicted to rock climbing.

Fall Risk, Week 15: Goals

I’ve never thought of myself as a goal-oriented person. But in 2018 I set my first year-long goal, and it changed the course of my climbing forever.

The goal was to send 100 routes rated 5.12 or harder. I was able to pull it off, and I would still call 2018 the most fun I’ve had in a single year of climbing! I would also call that year the base of the “pyramid” that ultimately led to the hardest send of my life — a 5.14a (and life-long climbing goal), in 2021.

(Please feel free to skip this detail-filled paragraph: After doing over 100 5.12s in 2018, I made the goal of 50 routes rated 5.12c and harder in 2019. I was well on the way to finishing that goal when I got myself stuck on a mega-project and fell a bit short. In 2020, I set a way-too-ambitious goal of a pyramid of 16 5.13a’s, 8 13b’s, 4 13c’s, 2 13d’s and a 14a. This was obviously lofty, but I was doing well half-way through the year when I got stifled by that same mega-project from 2019. My goal in 2021 became to finish that pyramid from 2020, and I was making good progress (including sending my 14a project) when I had my accident.)

My lifetime pyramid with 14a at the top. In a perfect pyramid, each decrease in grade would require double the number of sends. For reference, I’ve sent about 77 routes of the grade 5.12b. This is 60% of the 128 I’d need for this pyramid to be complete. You can see that I over-did it on 13- and reached a bit for 14a.

I could talk for hours about what I’ve learned with all of the volume I’ve climbed since 2018. Notably, I learned that even after almost a full year of exclusively onsight climbing 12-, I was still just as (perhaps more) capable of projecting 13-. I learned that volume at the right grade can be the biggest difference-maker in a climber’s progress — physical progress, yes, but more importantly, significant mental progress. I also learned that getting stuck on a project can get in the way of this ever-important volume, so one must prioritize long-term projects wisely.

Most of all, I learned how much of a boost I get from setting a year-long goal that I’m excited about. While I typically think that I’m always trying my hardest to improve, the reality is that a lot of psych is lost when you don’t have something to aim for. Archery is certainly less interesting without a target, and seems that the same is true for climbing (and, I would imagine, most other endeavors).

With this in mind, I think it’s important to make small goals throughout the year. Perhaps a goal for each month. Or a small goal for each day that you go out to the crag. These intermediate goals do a lot to keep you psyched! (Just make sure to have a back-up plan, don’t get frustrated when you frequently don’t achieve the goal, and remember to not let the goal get in the way of having all of the fun).


Moving into 2022, I am more uncertain than ever about what I am capable of. Projecting 5.14a again this year seems about as likely as never climbing harder than 5.10. Both are unlikely, but seem within the realm of possibility. How does one set climbing goals when they don’t even know if they can walk to a crag?

So with this limitation in mind, here’s what I’m aiming for in 2022:

  • Walk to a crag and lead climb outside.

  • Get some strength back and send any 5.13.

  • Help at least 3 others achieve their climbing goals. Some of my proudest moments have been helping others finish their projects. And If I don’t have solid goals of my own, I figure now is a good time to follow some others’ psych and help them out.

  • Be extra friendly at the crag. I want to be the guy that says hi to everyone and is a cheerleader for everyone else’s climbing.

  • Climb with more partners. I think my combined total from 2020 and 2021 was a whopping 6 partners.


I’ll say now that I should be happy if I achieve even one of these goals — walking to a crag and lead climbing. Self, if you’re reading this on December 31, 2022, the rest is all bonus! And maybe that’s the biggest point of long-term goal setting. Humans can normalize to their current situations so quickly that it’s easy to forget how far we’ve come.

This is also one of the main benefits to keeping this blog. Now I can’t ever forget the time when I was actually fortunate to be bed-ridden for 3 months. Because my Fall Risk, Week 1 essay will always be there to remind me how far I’ve come.

It’s nice to look back whenever I need to recapture a bit of gratitude for just being alive.

Injury Updates:

I’ve been doing some serious top-roping at the gym, and even started to lead a few routes (my feet can still only handle overhangings). I’m trying to kick the walker habit, and some days am able to pull it off. A good day is typically followed by a day or two of extra swelling and pain. My biggest concern at the moment is my right elbow, which likes to get angry after every attempt at climbing.

I ordered PT a while ago, and I still haven’t been able to make an appointment… more on the health care system in a future post.

Fall Risk, Week 14: Get Back

I spent a lot of time this week watching Get Back with Jackie and her dad, and discussing the Beatles. The documentary is made from footage taken as The Beatles tried to write an album (Let It Be) and perform that album to a live audience (rooftop concert) in the span of just a few weeks.

In the final 45 minutes, we get an uncut and beautifully edited look at the rooftop concert. As a life-long Beatles fan, I found this finale to be the most exhilarating and joyful media I’ve seen since my accident (and I’ve consumed a lot in the last 3+ months).

I was most struck by how happy Paul seemed in those few moments on the rooftop. He was always at home, hard at work in the studio, surrounded by music. But outside, performing after so many years away from the stage, he seemed freed.

For the first time, my thinking about Paul and the breakup of The Beatles changed. Sure, the extremely high level of quality and consistency of Paul’s writing took a downward turn after their split. And the relationship between the four boys from Liverpool was never the same again. But at least after The Beatles ended, Paul got to be truly at home, performing again in the spotlight.

The title of the documentary seems to be an appropriate reference to The Beatles getting back to rehearsing and performing entire numbers together as a band. But I’ll forever think of the documentary and the song Get Back as Paul finally returning to where he once belonged. He was happiest with an audience.


In the next few weeks, I hope to be fully in my element as well.

This means living in a van with Jackie. Hanging in a beautiful place during the day, and snuggles at night.

It means creating something. That might be music, writing, math videos, or some other hobby I haven’t found yet.

It means living largely anonymously. After trying so hard to get the word out about my accident, I need to get back to the comfort of not being heard by the outside world.

Perhaps most of all, returning to my element means climbing. Preferably outside on rock, but until my feet decide to cooperate, I’ll take what I can get at the climbing gym.

And I’ve never felt more like a climber than after this injury. I walk so poorly that I have to take a wheelchair or a walker to travel the short distance to the base of a route. But as soon as I get my feet off the ground, something changes. For the first time in months, I know what to do, and my body (mostly) cooperates. I take a small amount of pride in feeling at ease climbing 5.11, while struggling with something as basic as walking. In those few moments on the wall, with Jackie belaying me below, I feel at home.

My first route back :)

I’m looking forward to 2022 more than any year I can remember. I hope to again fully participate in the beautiful balance of mental, physical, emotional, and spiritual that is climbing.

I can’t wait to get back to where I once belonged.


Injury Updates:

As I mentioned above, I was able to climb! I can’t fully weight my feet, so I can only do overhanging routes. So I needed a climber and a belayer (thanks Jackie and John!) to put a top-rope on the easiest routes in the lead cave for me. Also, I needed to rent shoes because my feet are too swollen to fit into my own. Surprisingly, I was able to do a 10a, 10b, and 10d all clean on my first day! On the next visits to the gym, I was able to complete some 5.11s.

Standing is no problem now that my calves have healed. Walking is another story. My left heel and right knee still have a lot of pain when moving under my weight . There is still pain in my right foot (and right elbow) too. My pelvis and back both feel pretty good. I’ll learn more about my right hand when I finally try to crimp.

I also still have sciatic nerve pain, which is a bummer, but can be controlled by gabapentin with only a bit of mental cloud as a side-effect. Hopefully I can taper off of that soon.

I’ve ordered some more PT, and hopefully that will help as I get stronger.

Fall Risk, Week 13: First Steps

On Wednesday, December 15, three months after my accident, my surgeon gave me the go-ahead to stand and walk again.

After a pretty lengthy search for a walker, I took my first steps at the G1 climbing gym in Broomfield, CO. My right knee was in a lot of pain, my legs felt wooden, and my feet hurt under my weight. But I felt well balanced and generally ok. To my surprise, I was able to walk back and forth in the bouldering area of the gym several times without much trouble (I may have even pulled onto a V1 to do a few moves). In my mind, I would only need a walker for a few days, and I’d be top-rope climbing at the gym before the end of the week.

On Thursday, I woke up with calves so sore that I knew my big plans of climbing weren’t going to pan out so quickly. I could hardly stand, and only took a few assisted steps all day. Friday was no different. On Saturday, I was once again able to stand and walk a minute or so at a time.

After 3 months of only sitting and lying down, I knew that my path to walking normally again would be rocky. Because there is some distance between now and normal. But I wouldn’t have foreseen my calves to be the limiting factor.

All calf pain aside, there are still many unanswered questions about my recovery. Will my right knee ever straighten out? Will I ever be able to fit into an aggressive climbing shoe? Will I be able to weight my feet without pain? Will I have ongoing injuries in my right hand? Will I develop arthritis in my knee and elbow?

With a lot of uncertainty still ahead, I’ve taken the first few steps. And that’s what’s important.



Coincidentally, Wednesday also marked the last day of my last semester teaching full-time. On the same day that I took my first literal steps in months, I took my first figurative steps into retirement. This is also a beginning with an unknown end. Will I need to work full time again? Will I have unforeseen expenses? Will van-life be a viable long-term living plan? Will I miss the classroom? Will I get bored?

Again, what’s important is that after years of contemplation and dreaming of retiring while I’m young, I’ve finally taken the first steps.



First steps are hard. Because big change is hard. It’s unfortunate that so many of us stay trapped in bad situations because of fear, trepidation, and uncertainty. We stay at jobs that make us unhappy due to the uncertainty of starting from scratch. We stay in bad relationships because we’re afraid to be alone. We stay out of relationships because we fear being hurt. We stay in uncomfortable friendships due to potential social ramifications. Maybe worst of all, we stay unhappy with who we are because we’re afraid to face our true selves.

Not making the big changes that we want for our lives is understandable. But remaining in a wheelchair for the fear of the pain of walking again would be considered crazy. Maybe not making positive changes in our lives is crazy too.

Sure there will be many unexpected hurdles. The final outcome is uncertain. But sometimes we need to have faith that the change we desire is worth facing pain for.

Otherwise, we might get stuck in this wheelchair forever.

Fall Risk, Week 12: Responsibility

Like last week, I don’t really have the energy to write a formal essay. But a lot has happened this week, so I wanted to give a couple of updates before finishing with a few thoughts.

First, the climber in the second Shunt accident, Trevor Stuart, is alive and doing as well as someone could expect after a 60 foot fall. I’m very happy that I was able to speak with him via Zoom. He is in a lot of pain and has multiple breaks in his back and neck, but he was able to speak and carry on a short conversation. He did confirm that his top rope solo set-up was the same as mine and that he hadn’t gotten word about my accident before going out that day.

Lately, I’ve been thinking of climbers arriving at the decision to use a Petzl Shunt for top rope solo as a social trail in the forest. The trail was started by Petzl long ago when they authorized top rope solo as a use of their device. The trail was followed by many climbers, including influencers such as Dave MacLeod and Andy Kirkpatrick. Petzl then quietly removed top rope solo as an approved use of the device. But many climbers continued to use the Shunt for this reason — the trail remained.

My accident provided information about a very dangerous failure mode of the Shunt, and the climbing community is now doing its part to close the trail down. I felt like it was my responsibility to start to spread the word on Mountain Project and via podcast, as well as contact Petzl about my experience with the device. A climber and guide, Yann Camus, has posted a video demonstrating how a Shunt can detach from a rope (it is quite good and linked here if you’d like to watch). Dave MacLeod removed his video about using the Shunt for TR solo — a video that both Trevor and I (and nearly 300k others) watched. Andy Kirkpatrick has posted Yann’s video and redacted statements about the Shunt not being able to detach from a rope.

At this point, I feel like so many climbers have met and exceeded their responsibility to the community. Petzl, in my opinion, hasn’t. If you’re of the mindset that Petzl has already done their due diligence by saying that the device is not approved for top rope solo, then I’ll leave you with this op-ed of sorts that I wrote early this week. Please give it some thought:

So I had a climbing accident. I used a Petzl Shunt for top rope solo, and I fell. The device detached completely from the rope and I hit the ground 35 feet below. The problem is that Petzl doesn’t currently recommend the device for top rope solo.

At this point in the story, some people say, “You went rogue. You are responsible for your own safety. Deal with the consequences.”

But, as always, there is more to this story.

 

For the previous iteration of the Shunt, Petzl listed self-belays (aka top rope solo or self-lining) and ascending as approved uses of the device. This makes the Shunt very appealing. It is simple and has the ability to ascend and even easily descend short sections of a route.

The safety information included warnings about self-belay misuses. For example, Petzl said that the climber could accidentally grab their device and hold the cam down, letting it slide all the way down the rope. Petzl also said that if the climber was in a steeply overhanging situation, the camming device could hit the body of the climber, holding it open. The latter advice still lives on the Petzl website:

“No, the SHUNT is not recommended for self-belaying because of the risk of the cam jamming in an overhang situation.”

The newest iteration of the Shunt leaves back-up rappel as the only recommended use of the device. But there really aren’t many who need a back-up rappel device. I mean, a short loop of cord used as a prusik does the trick, right? So how can Petzl still be selling enough of this product to keep up with the cost of manufacturing?

Well, many in the climbing community still have knowledge of this device being used for top-rope solo. In fact, there are still pros, even Petzl sponsored athletes, who advertise the shunt as the most popular top rope solo device, or one of the best top rope solo devices on the market. One site from a Petzl sponsored athlete even states that the device can’t detach from a rope (this statement has since been redacted).

It turns out that the cam jamming is far from the worst outcome you could have with the Shunt. It can, in fact, completely detach from the rope. I never read this in any of Petzl’s information or from any websites discussing the device.

 At this point, let’s consider an analogy:

Let’s say a trusted company releases a product. It’s a small box of chocolates. These were loved by consumers, but there were internal concerns with the chocolates. So the company decides some changes need to be made.

Instead of a recall or removal of the item, they quietly re-brand the item as a paperweight. It is pretty tempting to eat those chocolate balls inside the paperweight, but the package is labeled as a paperweight only. Upon reading the product info, the company does say that you shouldn’t use the item for anything other than a paperweight. The company website states:

“The chocolate balls in the paperweight are not recommended for consumption because of the risk of getting a stomachache”

Years pass, and the paperweight keeps getting sold. It turns out that several people are still eating the chocolate balls. But the consequences were much worse than a stomachache for at least two of those people. They have been hospitalized for severe illness, and one is in the ICU. They may never fully recover.

Maybe there would be some folks saying that the hospital patients are responsible for their own safety and shouldn’t have eaten the chocolate – just follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. But most would be outraged. It’s clear that the company is making money by selling a dangerous product.

This paperweight company wouldn’t be able to continue to sell this product. It’s misleading at best and killing people for profit at worst. The American consumer wouldn’t allow it.

This isn’t about me or my accident. This is about the people out there still eating the chocolate. And the next person who will end up in the hospital or worse. I think that we should spend some time considering Petzl’s responsibility to its customers.

Fall Risk, Week 11: Another Petzl Shunt Accident

I was planning on writing a second essay about moving the goalposts this week. I wish I was writing that essay. But I feel like I got hit by a truck.

Unfortunately, just after I finished writing last week, I found two emails in my inbox. They both told me that there had been another accident involving the Petzl Shunt. This is what I was told:

Trevor was climbing top rope solo at the New River Gorge, WV on a 13a called The Greatest Show on Earth. His Petzl Shunt disconnected from the rope and he fell 60 feet to the ground. He is in critical condition.

The climbers at the scene and rescue workers both said that his rope was intact and his Shunt was still properly attached to his harness. So it seems the only thing that could have happened is the device detached from the rope when he fell.

https://www.wdtv.com/2021/12/01/rock-climber-critical-condition-after-traumatic-fall-near-kevin-ritchie-bridge/

Part of the reason I’ve been able to stay positive during my recovery is the idea that I took one for the team. Sure, I have to sit a few months (or more) out of the game during a time when I was as strong as I’ve ever been. But no one else has to have my accident again, because I’ll be able to spread the word. Tragically, this turned out to be untrue.

I can hardly describe how sad this makes me. To think that another climber and another family is going to go through a worse situation than my own, for the exact same reason as my accident, is horrible. The fact that there were 10 weeks between my initial posts on Mountain Project and this new accident makes it even harder to swallow. There was potentially time for information to spread about my accident to this climber. But word didn’t get there in time.

I usually like to tie a nice little bow at the end of my essays, but I don’t think it makes sense this week. Instead, I’ll end with an observation:

I wrote in my week 1 essay that I felt like my accident wasn’t happening to me. That I was disassociated from the accident and all of the events that followed. That nothing felt real. That I was oddly unfazed.

After hearing the news of another person’s accident, I volley between sadness and anger. I’m suddenly not sleeping well. I’ve been staying up googling, hoping to hear an update about the WV climber’s condition. Hoping that someday I can reach out to him and his family.

I can hardly feel my own accident. But here I am, feeling every emotion for an accident that happened half-way across the country to someone I’ve never met.

Update:

Since writing this essay, a family member has confirmed that Trevor’s Shunt detached from his rope. Trevor is in the ICU but has no spinal cord damage and is expected to recover.

Fall Risk, Week 10: Moving the Goalposts (Part 1)

At one point, I thought my ultimate goal in climbing would be sending a 5.12a outside. I did it! I was elated for about 17 seconds before grabbing a guidebook and looking up the nearest 12b. A while later, I completed that 12b. Then a 12c. Each time I achieved a new grade level, I took my new skill level for granted and looked toward the next achievement. Ten years of that passed, and I recently finished my first 14a. With my recent accident and my ever increasing age (41 puts me in climbing’s senior circuit), I feel confident that this was the hardest route I’ll ever climb. But maybe someday I’ll get back to full strength, and that familiar itch for more will return.

Because this is what humans do. If we kick a 30 yard field goal, we want to kick a 35 yarder. If we do that, we want to try from 40. Always striving for a bit more has made us an extremely successful species. It helped us span the globe, take control of agriculture, build industries, and invent the Snuggie. But this lack of contentment doesn’t make us a particularly happy species. Because there is no end to this game. We always take our progress for granted and move the goalposts just a bit further away.

The feeling 18 seconds after a big send

Always striving for more is baked into our DNA through millions of years of evolution. So how can a human ever be satisfied?

I believe that when it comes to honing our skills, we need to find joy in the striving itself. All humans love to learn and improve regardless of the nobility of the ends, so our striving doesn’t have to be meaningful. Just find something that you love or want to do and try to focus on the process of improving day-by-day or year-by-year. Gardening? Crosswords? Lawn Maintenance? Fishkeeping? Breadmaking? Curling? Ukulele? Puppetry? Karate? Parkour? Faberge eggs? Climbing? It doesn’t matter. We just have to remember that it isn’t about our ultimate skill level or status in our chosen activity. Rather, it’s about enjoying the activity and the process of improving. (And it sure doesn’t hurt if you can recognize your progress by remembering how bad you were when you first started.)

Do you remember your first time climbing?

When I (hopefully) get back to the sport of climbing, I’ll get the unique experience of starting from scratch. Which means that after years of extremely slow improvement, I can now experience gains each week or each month as I work through the grades all over again. So having a “pre” and “post” accident climbing career could be a fun new journey.

That is, as long as I don’t focus too much on my final post-accident grade. Because there is no end to that game. No matter what I do, I could always move the goalposts just a bit further away.

Fall Risk, Week 9: Giving Thanks

Recall a time when you’ve had a cold that stuffs up your sinuses so badly that you have to suck air through your mouth all day. It’s hard to sleep. It’s even hard to think. You suddenly realize what a luxury it was to just be able to breathe normally. You think to yourself, “When I can breathe through my nose again, it’s going to be so great. When this cold is over, I’m going to enjoy the hell out of this breathing thing! Oh breathing, I’ve taken you for granted all my life!”

Slowly, your cold goes away. But that joy you expected never comes — and if it does, it lasts maybe a day, an hour, a minute, or just a few breaths. Something that once promised happiness, is quickly taken for granted, and you move on with your life.

I’ve been horizontal for nine weeks now, and I’m starting to feel that walking, or even standing, is the greatest gift I could ever have. Almost every night, I have a dream that I’m doing something as basic as standing up in a shower, walking into a store, or hanging out in my van. These mundane things have literally become the stuff of dreams. But I know that as soon as I can walk, I’ll take it for granted and move on to trotting, skipping, frolicking, prancing, and the next natural step in that progression: climbing.

A couple of dips in Lime Creek

But wouldn’t it be great to remain in a state of perpetual happiness in appreciation of our most basic acts — to be forever delighted by the mundane? Unfortunately, this concept is so far from our nature that we consider it to be comical. One would be deemed quite insane if they were constantly overjoyed by their ability to walk down the road and breathe through their nose.

But I don’t think it’s so crazy. So this Thanksgiving, as everyone is taking turns saying what they’re thankful for (and if you are like me and struggle to answer questions under pressure) just be thankful that you’re breathing. Be thankful that you can walk. Be thankful that you can listen to the music, understand the conversation, or hear the sounds of dinner being prepared. Be thankful that you can see your friends, taste your drink, or smell your dinner.

Because while we don’t often know it until we lose it, the mundane is certainly something to be thankful for.

Fall Risk, Week 8: Expectations

I have to be honest — for the first time since my accident I’ve felt pretty down this week.

I know that my situation could be worse. For many climbers or for their families after an accident like mine, their situation has been much worse. And for most people on the planet, being able to relax in a hotel with an endless supply of media at their fingertips would be one of the best days of their lives.

So as the days begin to blend together, and as my body starts to get restless, I’ve kept the negative feelings at bay, knowing that I am a very lucky human. The issue over the last couple of weeks, and the reason I’m feeling down, is a problem with expectations.

I wrote last week about my expectation to be able to get onto crutches. This didn’t pan out.

My interactions with Climbing Magazine didn’t work out as expected either. Several weeks ago, they reached out to write an accident report on my fall. I was excited to be able to reach a broader audience with information about my experience and the true dangers of using a Petzl Shunt for TR solo. We met and discussed. Communication was good. I was told I’d hear back quickly with a draft. Then I got ghosted (it’s been 6 weeks since we met, and my two follow-up emails have gone unanswered). I can’t help but feel that this was because of the fact that Petzl is a major sponsor of the magazine, and my story would reflect poorly on Petzl. Bummer.

Most recently, I received a reply regarding my email to Petzl, and got word that I would have a phone conversation with their Chief Operating Officer about my accident. I was looking forward to discussing some of the wording on their website (my true feeling about the device is that it is too dangerous and needs a redesign, but I was willing to settle for a discussion about wording). Most notably, that I find the following statement on their website to be problematic and in need of an update:

“No, the SHUNT is not recommended for self-belaying because of the risk of the cam jamming in an overhang situation.”

This statement only convinces a climber that they shouldn’t use the device in an overhanging situation. And even then, the consequence of the cam momentarily jamming is minimal. If the device is legitimately not intended for TR solo, then the climbing community needs a statement that will truly dissuade them:

“No, the SHUNT is not recommended for self-belaying because of the risk of the device detaching from the rope in a fall.”

This is far more convincing and a much more accurate statement. Had I read the above statement, I would have never used a Shunt. And since I almost died using the device, a slight wording change seemed to me to be a minor consolation for Petzl to make. And hey, if we got to talk about making their device safer, or even how to get a clearer message out to the community, that’s a great bonus. I even have some thoughts about a redesign, Mr. C.O.O.!

Instead of a real discussion between climbers, I got an individual who had been coached by legal to basically say nothing. I was essentially told that I shouldn’t be using the Shunt for TR solo, and that they aren’t concerned with spelling out every way a device could be misused, with so many uses that are “on the periphery”. Periphery? I pointed out that a very famous and well respected climber had heard about my accident and since removed a video (with nearly 300,000 hits) from YouTube titled How to self-belay using a Shunt. I was told “I haven’t been privy to that many people using (the Shunt) for this (purpose).” Nonsense.

In the end, I was offered two mini traxions (for a self-belay set-up used more commonly in the US). I declined. I assume that this was intended as a kind gesture, but I felt it to be a bit condescending. I mean, I know about other possible systems. And of course I’d never use a Shunt again — I almost died because I did. The purpose of my email and subsequent phone call was for the safety of the thousands of climbers who are still out there using a Shunt in the same system and for the same reasons I did.

The C.O.O. seemed unfazed and unimpressed by anything I told him, but eventually I was thanked for the information and told that he would share it with his team. When I asked how I would hear back about the process or discussion about making some simple changes to their website and safety information, I was told that I could call back any time. Keep in touch. Don’t be a stranger. Smell ya later.

So the conversation didn’t go very well. After I hung up, I thought about what had just happened. The voice in my head began to mock me, saying, “what did you expect, dumbass?”.

I went against the advice of the vast majority of my friends and family and didn’t contact a lawyer. I contacted Petzl as an individual in good faith. But of course I wasn’t going to have an honest conversation. Presumably, their legal team says that they need to protect themselves against possible lawsuits, which is likely true in many cases. So an honest conversation is made impossible by this expectation — this fear of legal exposure. Now, the only way to really get a point across is through a lawyer. Thus, lawyers have a completely self-perpetuating system, even in cases where greed is a non-factor.

So in the end, it wasn’t the 35 foot fall and large amounts of bodily trauma that did me in — I’ve been leveled by the American legal system and my own optimistic expectations.

Yep, talking to Petzl about safety is worse than this.

I’ve been grappling with the moral here.

I’ve never liked the “having low expectations is the key to happiness” approach to life. It’s too depressing. Anyway, expectations can be good. They give us something to look forward to and to strive for. They give us hope. They give us a guide for our own social behavior — I’ll treat you with the kindness that I expect to be treated with.

So maybe the moral here isn’t about expectations, but how to feel when yours aren’t met… or maybe more accurately, when your expectations don’t seem to be met. Because your progress or your influence is often greater than you think. We don’t always get results immediately, and people don’t always react the way they should in difficult situations. But often a seed is planted. That seed can grow and cause positive outcomes for you or for others many years down the road.

So we all have to keep planting positive seeds, even if we never personally reap the fruits of that labor.

In my case, I didn’t get much but frustration from the phone call. But I believe that Petzl has no interest in selling a device knowing full well that it is commonly used in a way that could kill a climber. So I know that I’ll be checking their site for a wording change. I’ll be reading the news for a redesign, a recall, or better yet, a new TR solo device.

And maybe I’ll temper my expectations… just a little.

Fall Risk, Week 7: Regression

You’ve been there. All climbers have been there.

You’ve been working a project, and you’ve made a ton of progress in the last few trips to the crag. You are feeling close to a send. You wake up each morning and immediately start to visualize the route. You’re doing drop knees on the gas pedal during your morning commute. Your boss catches you miming the movement at your desk. You fall asleep thinking about the beta.

On your big day, you hike up to the crag, full of anticipation of your triumph. You get fully warmed up, you’re feeling strong, and the conditions are perfect. This is it. You’re moments away. Victory is almost guaranteed.

You flail like a newborn giraffe.

How could you have regressed so much? You question whether you slept enough the night before. Whether you ate poorly. Whether you rested enough. Whether you rested too much. Whether you’re too old and this is the beginning of the long slow deterioration of your abilities. Whether you should just quit climbing altogether.

It was a beautiful day at the crag — no work, no responsibilities, hanging with friends, doing the sport that you love. Instead of having a great day, you’re in a downward spiral.

I had a similar setback in my recovery this week. I had a follow-up with my orthopedic surgeon, and was fully expecting to be able to walk out of his office on crutches. I dreamed about being upright. I visualized my first steps, which would most likely transition quickly into some slick dance moves.

On my big day, I confidently rolled my wheelchair into the waiting area, into the examination room, then in to get x-rays. If there is such a thing as wheelchair swagger, I had it. This was my moment.

Then I was spiritually depantsed.

After reviewing the x-rays, my surgeon casually walked into my room and, in between comments about the weather, nonchalantly made the side note that I’d have at least 6 more weeks in the wheelchair. My hopes and dreams of #crutchlife were dashed.

Why didn’t I heal faster? Did I not eat well enough? Did I sleep too little? Did I sleep too much? Maybe I’m too old to recover. Maybe I’ll just sit in this wheelchair and in this hotel room for the rest of my life.

The thing about regression on a project is that you still went up there and tried. And that means you actually made progress on the route. You further trained your nervous system for those specific moves. You solidified your beta. And maybe because of your feeling weak, you found a little bit of micro beta to make a move or two easier. Sure, you feel terrible about your day, but you made both physical and mental progress. Your failure today makes you stronger tomorrow.

And hey, a day outside with friends isn’t so bad.

And the thing is, even though I had a bad office visit, it’s not like my bones are worse off because of it. I am still healing, I am still one day closer to being fully recovered. And maybe because of this this longer timeline, my bones will be stronger when it’s time to walk again. My regression today will make me stronger tomorrow.

And hey, a few more weeks in this hotel with Jackie isn’t so bad.



This Week’s Happenings:

Besides the bad news about my recovery, I did get my braces and casts off. And several friends came over and brought good food and better company. I also got to do a kinda-sorta pull up out of my wheelchair at a playground. I even got to record a podcast, Clipping Chains, which will air in the next few weeks. Hoping the coming weeks are just as fun :)

Fall Risk, Week 6: Waking Up

One of the strange things about my accident is that I never lost consciousness. I was awake and able to answer questions seconds after I hit the ground. I responded every time a rescue worker asked me how I was doing, even as my blood pressure tanked. And I was able to tell the ER doctors every place on my body that was injured as I lay on the examination table, high as a kite on morphine and fentanyl.

But in some sense I feel like I’ve just started to regain my consciousness. Six weeks after the accident, I think I’m finally waking up. I’m sure it’s partly the drugs and partly the trauma, but this whole thing didn’t even begin to feel real until a few days ago. And I’m here to report that coming back to reality is a mixed bag.

On one hand, I can really feel the fact that I’m sitting in this bed, immobilized and not physically able to even leave the room on my own, when just a few weeks ago, I was climbing and feeling as strong as ever.

On the other hand, I can finally truly feel that my ability to truly feel was an unlikely outcome of such an event — if that accident had happened 100 times, I probably would have died, been paralyzed, or been much more badly injured in 98 of them.

But the phrases “brush with death” and “near-death experience” still don’t resonate with me. I expect someone who has almost died to come out the other side wiser, kinder, calmer, more giving, more caring, more enlightened, feeling victorious… or at least maybe they’d have a few profound things to say about life. I, on the other hand, feel oddly unfazed. This accident feels like a tiny blip on my life’s radar before I can get back to the business of climbing and van life. It’s oddly unsatisfying.

So one has to wonder… why? If I’m going to get all of the negatives of an accident like this, where’s my damn enlightenment? Shouldn’t my life be profoundly changed forever?

Ignore the ham leaning on the van. That’s a nice sunset at Lime Creek.

Maybe the story of enlightenment after a brush with death is largely a myth perpetuated by movies and TV. After all, basically every one of my prior preconceptions about major life events had been way off base. Real life college, adult life, love, and closure after loss have all defied the wisdom of the TV shows that raised me. So it shouldn’t be surprising when almost dying follows the same pattern.

More Lime Creek love

I’m sure there’s a spectrum of how we all cope with an experience like this. But maybe post-trauma enlightenment is most commonly a story of a life that has been lived largely unexamined. And of everything one could say about me, living an unexamined life isn’t one of them. Someone probably doesn’t end up living in a van while working a respectable full time job unless they’ve seriously questioned the status quo.

And the life I expect to go back to is pretty great. Sure, I don’t have running water, a kitchen table, or even insulation. But I spend much of my days with the person I love most (Jackie) doing the thing that I love most (climbing). At night, I come back to a comfortable bed (still with Jackie) in a van that is parked in a beautiful place… or at least in a parking lot close to work. I’m sure there will be revisions to this lifestyle in the future. But I think that my lack of enlightenment after a brush with death is just confirmation that this is a version of my life in which I could have died happy.

And that’s not such a bad thing to wake up to.




Week 6 Happenings:

Not much to report for the last few weeks. Just daily healing, visits from friends, a bit of in-home PT, and lots of media consumption.

This week, I did stop taking all pain meds except for gabapentin, which feels like a milestone. (Apparently, I damaged my sciatic nerve in the fall, so there is pain. But it’s very much controlled by gabapentin.)

Bills are starting to come in, but I think I’ll make a whole post about that in the future :)




Fall Risk, Weeks 4 & 5: Slowing Down

It’s been five weeks now since the accident, and the days are starting to blend together in this wheelchair accessible, extended stay hotel. Having only one fully functioning limb (left arm) really does limit what you can do. Here is what an average day’s activities look like:

  1. wake up

  2. get out of bed

  3. use the bathroom

  4. eat breakfast

  5. listen to a podcast/music

  6. lie back down

  7. read part a book

  8. get up

  9. eat lunch

  10. lie down

  11. nap

  12. get up

  13. have a visitor

  14. lie down

  15. stream a tv show

  16. go to bed

This list is fairly comprehensive.... I’m basically living Peter Gibbons’ Office Space dream of doing nothing. So you might wonder how this list could take 16 hours to complete. To answer this question, let’s zoom in on the most important moment of the day: potty time. For anyone not interested in the details of how I poo with only one good arm and no working legs, please skip the following set of steps and pictures. It is a lengthy process, as this is no small task.

Let’s assume I’m already up in my wheelchair with my back brace on.

Get slide board, a 30 inch long plank of wood, and balance it on lap.

**Don’t drop the slide board during any point in process or add 6 more steps.

Notice some obstruction in the path to the bathroom.

Drop off slide board. Get reacher-grabber tool. Move the obstruction using reacher-grabber.

Put slide board back on lap. Wheel to bathroom. Line up wheelchair just right, so as to get over the evil lip on the floor between the kitchen and the bathroom. Use just the right amount of wheelchair force. Popping a wheelie is the advanced technique here.

Line the wheelchair up just perfectly next to the commode. A protractor may be helpful.

Wedge one end of the slide board under butt. Be careful not to get shorts or testicles caught.

Rest other end on the top of the commode in a stable orientation. Continue to be watchful for testicle snagging.

Wiggle way across the slide board, bridging the gap between wheelchair and the toilet.

Get pants down using some back-and-forth rocking and leaning while working the elastic ever so slowly downward (erotic novelists, feel free to use this incredibly sexy line).

Poo.

Reverse the slide board transfer back to wheelchair.

Wash hands.

And that’s how you poop!

Here’s my point. Doing anything takes a lot of time right now. Processes move slowly. But this is actually a good thing. I have nowhere to be. And every day, every hour, and every minute, I’m healing up a bit more. I have to constantly remind myself that if making and eating breakfast takes two hours, then… great!

More importantly, I constantly need to remind myself to stay in the moment. If my focus is on eventually eating dinner, then the long, slow process of actually making it can only frustrate me. Instead, I have to stay focused on each tiny task at hand: getting out a plate, turning on the stove-top, opening the elegant package of Top Ramen. If staying in the moment is achieved, then on a really good day I can appreciate each movement, each sound, each feeling as it comes.

But appreciating each moment is something that I’ve struggled with in normal life activities too.

Driving: I want to enjoy the scenery and the radio more. I want to focus less on the destination.

Climbing: I want to enjoy each movement and each attempt on a route more. I want to focus less on when I might send.

Social interactions, say at the crag: I want to enjoy the company of the friend that I’ve just run into more. I want to focus less on when I can start climbing.

Work: I want to focus on the current conversation more. I want to focus less on yesterday’s meeting.

I can’t say that I’m loving the fact that I’m broken. But eventually I’ll get out of this wheelchair, this cast, and these braces. And I think the slow lifestyle of the past several weeks is good training for the day that I can leave this hotel behind. Maybe when I rejoin the world, I can be a better human.

Because rather than practicing who I want to be, I’ve been practicing when I want to be. Not in the past, not in the future, but in the present.

Fall Risk, Week 3: Life as a Dog

At times I’ve considered how great it would be to know exactly what you want to do every day. I’ve longed for the single-minded focus of a sled dog, who wants nothing more than to run day and night. How wonderful would it be to remove yourself from every day’s paradox of choice and just know exactly what gets you out of bed in the morning.

I used to have a more complicated relationship with rock climbing. Sure, I loved it for a lot of reasons, but between a natural fear of heights and some not-so-positive influences, experiences, and pressures, I was often too stressed to truly enjoy the sport. Many mornings I would actually wake up dreading going out to the crag.

But beginning early 2017, those stresses lifted, and I began to feel like I had found my inner sled dog with rock climbing. In the last few years, I’ve woken up every morning thinking about which crag I’d like to go to, studying the weather, the wind, the elevation, and the angle of the rock for sun exposure. I’ve made elaborate and often lofty climbing goals for each year. I’ve mapped out how I might achieve my lifetime climbing goals. I’ve helped other climbers achieve their own lofty goals.

I was a true sled dog — dare I say, a Siberian Husky training for the Iditarod.

Millie (Aussie) wants only to herd sheep and children

Millie (Aussie) wants only to herd sheep and children

Since my fall a few weeks ago, I’ve become more of a Labrador. I spend a lot of time at home waiting for my human to arrive. I’m very excited when I can get taken out for a walk. Meeting and being friendly with people in passing has become almost second nature. And a car ride is a very special treat (though I can get whiny if the window isn’t at least a little bit cracked).

As a Labrador, I aim to please all of my doctors, nurses, and therapists. Though they should be more forgiving when I mess up. With each person wanting me to do something slightly different, I’ve received pretty inconsistent training. After some time though, I’ve learned each trainer’s nuances and alter my behaviors to each one accordingly.

I’d say I’m a pretty good boy.

Charlie (Labradoodle) has infinite energy and infinite frendliness

Charlie (Labradoodle) has infinite energy and infinite frendliness

Georgie (Lab) and I engaged in conversation. She laughed, enchanted by my intellect… or maybe she was just scoping out my sandwich.

Georgie (Lab) and I engaged in conversation. She laughed, enchanted by my intellect… or maybe she was just scoping out my sandwich.


I’ve read recently, that sled dogs need their masters to put them through a complex and time-consuming calming process each night. This way they can sleep. This way, they don’t literally run themselves to death.

I’m not sure if my master was fate, luck, God, the help of the climbers at the crag that day, search and rescue, skilled medical professionals, or the combination of them all. But somehow, I didn’t climb myself to death a few weeks ago.

Since then, I’ve eaten a lot of good people food, spent extra time with my human, napped a lot, and even gotten to sit on all of the furniture. I still feel like a sled dog at heart. But for now, being a Labrador isn’t so bad.


This Week’s Happenings:

Wednesday, October 6: Everything happened on the same day! I was discharged for in-home PT (home can’t be our van for a while, so we moved into a wheelchair accessible extended stay hotel). I also had my first follow-up appointment where I learned that my new timeline for walking is… 10 more weeks! That means I won’t walk until 2022, but I’m going to try to stay positive. Like any good Lab might.

Lola (mix?) eating every small tree at Staunton

Lola (mix?) eating every small tree at Staunton