Well, we're moving on. Not because we didn't enjoy the climbing, but because the extended forecast in the whole region includes some very hot weather that the cats aren't going to enjoy. Having spent a couple of weeks here, we learned a few things. Here's what you need to know if you’re considering taking a climbing trip to Spearfish Canyon, SD.
Some nice signage leading to the climbs
Guidebook: Spearfish Canyon, The VC, and other Black Hills Limestone, Mikel Cronin
Drive: 6 hours from Denver. Shorter than expected!
Best time to visit: Probably fall, but spring and summer are great too. We’re here in June, and highs are mostly in the 70s and 80s.
Sun/Shade: Both sun and shade can be found on the rock at all times of the day. The guidebook has details for each crag.
Camping: Camping in the canyon (hwy 14a) is not allowed, but there are a few pay campgrounds near the climbing (Hannah, Rod and Gun, Timon) . There is also a long dirt road just off of the main canyon (road 222) with some free but not so great primitive camping opportunities. We haven’t found any free tent camping areas regularly visited by climbers. Van camping is the way to go :)
Approaches: The drive from town to the crags is in the 30 minute range. Road 222 is closer to most crags. Hikes are typically pretty short… 10-15 minutes on average. All are pretty steep. The guidebook includes a kid-friendly rating for each crag, which is nice.
The Climbing: The rock is limestone and isn’t too dissimilar from Shelf Road, CO or Ten Sleep, WY. Probably almost 1000 sport climbs in the canyon, but I wouldn’t go far out of my way to visit unless you are comfortable warming up on mid-10s and projecting at least in the high 11 range. With exceptions, the quality of climbs below 11a tend to be lower. But there are tons of great 12s and 13s! Bolting is good and isn’t as run-out as we were told. We haven’t felt unsafe on any climb so far. Bring a helmet to belay — some areas still have loose rock. Grades can be stout especially on the warm-ups. And don't forget a stick clip.
Natalie getting warmed up (see more pictures of Nat on Instagram @natalieclimbs)
Phone Service: Phone service in the canyon is spotty, but great in town. We actually tend to get good signal up at the walls.
Nearby Amenities: The town of Spearfish has everything you could need including strong 4G signal, Walmart, library, rec center/waterpark, and a cute downtown area. The town is at the north end of the canyon, 30 or so minutes from the climbing.
Rest Day Activities: The rec center is nice and has showers, City Park is beautiful, and there are coffee shops in town. Also, it’s pretty touristy in these parts. Mt Rushmore, Crazy Horse, Custer St Park, Wind Cave NP, Jewel Cave NM are all within 2 hours.
Gus enjoying the view
Water: There is at least one water pump in City Park. The pay campgrounds have them too.
Public Bathrooms: There's one not far up 222, and there are many restrooms in parks in Spearfish.
Bugs: Yep, it’s pretty buggy right now. Lots of rain this season may have made for a bad mosquito year, but we're covered in bites.
What We'll Miss the Most: The quiet at the crags. We walked right up and got on every climb we wanted, didn't wait in line, and hardly climbed near anyone else for two weeks.
Heading out to Ten Sleep, WY tomorrow — one of our favorite spots. See you there!