Several friends have contacted me lately with questions about our recent trip to South Africa to boulder at the Rocklands. So I decided to make a quick, clickable post to organize some basic info, some of which may be tough to find anywhere else. Here it goes:
First, get the guidebook. It costs a tiny fraction of what you'll pay for your trip. I've heard rumors that a new edition is coming, so look for that too...
Location: The climbing is located around here in the Cederberg Wilderness. The Cederberg is a nature reserve located a few hours north of Cape Town.
Flights: We ended up paying around $1700 each round trip, flying Denver/Chicago on Southwest, then Chicago/Dubai and Dubai/Cape Town on Emirates. Emirates was fantastic and didn't hassle us about our pads in the least. We heard some stories of airlines charging extra, but most airlines seemed ok with pads. To be extra safe, you'll want to check official airline rules... and dress your pads up like hockey equipment or something that doesn't incur charges.
Lodging: The main options are Traveler's Rest, Alpha Farms, and De Pakhuys. If you're traveling with a few friends, then book a cottage well in advance for the best comfort/cost option. Camping at De Pakhuys (about $5/night) is the cheapest option if you're flying solo. We got some pretty lush accommodations at Traveler's Rest for about $25/night.
Our trusty Chevy Spark outside one of our accommodations at Traveler's Rest.
Car and Driving: Unless you have some awesome friends to pick you up from the airport and drive you around every day, you'll need a car. We used Thrifty, got the cheapest option, and spent about $13/day. This little manual transmission car barely held 2 small pads and luggage for 2, and was pretty uncomfortable on the bumpy roads leading to a couple of the climbing areas. If you can swing it, a bigger car/suv is a nice luxury.
You drive on the left side of the road in SA (which is extra interesting with a manual transmission). And it's much more of a free-for-all than on US highways. You'll notice on two lane highways that it's customary to swerve your car about half-way into the left shoulder to allow someone to pass you on the right. I didn't realize this on our first drive up to the Cederberg... and I couldn't figure out why there were so many drivers frustrated with me. But be careful -- a lot of people walk along the highways out there!
Hikes: They range from 5 minutes (8 day rain) to 30-45 minutes (the pass). Nothing is too sketchy for kids, though stay on trail and watch out for baboons and on your way to Fields of Joy :)
Beginning the hike from the pass, and heading to roadside for the day.
Food: Eating out in South Africa is very inexpensive compared to the US. The only options near the climbing are the Restaurant at Traveler's Rest, and the Hen House coffee shop. Groceries can be obtained about 30 minutes away at Spar in Clanwilliam. It's a great, modern grocery store with all options. The meat in SA is great, but vegetarians should have no problem anywhere. Tip: Use the elevated parking garage behind Spar for the safest, no-hassle access!
Try the malva pudding and the entrees at Traveler's Rest. If you're a sea food lover, you'll want to make the hour drive to Lambert's Bay to eat here. Oh, and if you get the chance, have a braai with some locals.
Breakfast outside the Traveler's Rest Restaurant with our favorite French climbers.
Money and Tipping: The exchange rate is around 15 Rand for 1 USD. Goods are cheap once you're in South Africa, and everyone takes credit cards. If you need cash back for tipping or otherwise, most places allow you to add it onto your credit card purchase.
The tipping culture is not as generous as it is in the US. Standard restaurant tipping is 10% (also called a service fee). And at the gas stations, which are all full service in SA, a nice tip for filling your gas and washing your windows is 5 Rand total... they'll bring the credit card reader out to your car.
Weather: Expect the weather to be fairly similar to a place like Hueco Tanks, but a bit wetter and the opposite season (southern hemisphere). We were there mid-June through July, and it was mostly great bouldering weather. And unlike Hueco, the park doesn't close... so if you're there on a hot day, climbing early mornings and at night is an option. The Pass provides the coolest weather, while places like 8 Day Rain and the Sassies are a bit warmer.
Serious sunsets
WiFi: Wifi can be purchased cheaply at Traveler's Rest and is free at the Hen House. During peak hours, the wifi at the Hen House is basically non-functional. I had to work online every morning and went to Traveler's Rest because it tended to be faster (fewer people). When I was there, it was something like 50 Rand for 100MB.
Safety: Besides potential snake/baboon encounters, you're safe when out near the climbing areas and in Clanwilliam. But Cape Town is not safe compared to US cities. Muggings are common. Don't take out your cellphone while walking, and be sure to use a money belt for your passport and important items. If possible, don't go out at night or use ATMs when you're alone. But what the city may lack a bit in safety, it more than makes up for in beauty. Try a drive down chapman's peak road, or see some penguins on boulders beach!
Race: There's a much greater level of racial inequality in South Africa than in the US. It hit all of us tourists pretty hard at some point on the trip. In a sense, it's very interesting to witness, because it's like going back 50 years or so in the US. It's a good opportunity to contemplate, and have some discussions with friends and locals.
Unexpected Beauty: Don't forget to look up at night. The night sky is fantastic and the sunsets are the best I've seen. It's actually what I miss the most from our trip. That and all of the friendly local people we met. On that note, don't forget to say hi to Aubrey at the Traveler's Rest for Craig and Natalie :) As for Crallan, Sadia, Jan, James, Charite, Javi, and Becky & James -- we hope to see you in SA again soon!
@natalieclimbs getting ready to send the Fred Nicole classic, Last Day in Paradise (7c/V9)
